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Hundreds of private designers are turning out gauzy wedding dresses, brilliantly decorated bathing suits, linen pants and even uniforms for state businesses. Last week, dozens of designers displayed their wares at the five-day Havana Fashion Week at Cubas most elegant theaters, where hundreds turned out for runway shows, private fittings and cocktail parties. The changes that have taken place in this country, the openings, make things easier, said Jesus Frias, a designer who put on a swimwear runway show on Friday. Theres a fashion renaissance in Cuba but it cant be a priority for the state, so its we private designers who are bringing it back. The growth of the artisanal fashion industry comes thanks to free-market reforms put in place by President Raul Castro after he took power in 2008. Unlike some new private businesses, the fashion industry is receiving a relatively warm welcome from the communist bureaucracy, perhaps because it doesnt directly compete with the state. After successful runs in the first decades of Cubas socialist revolution, state-run clothing businesses were hurt by the collapse of the Soviet Union and had largely disappeared by the mid-1990s. Celebrities and fashionistas have made Havana a hot destination over the last two years amid a boom in tourism set off by detente with the United States. In May, French label Chanel took over Havanas Prado boulevard for a runway show that garnered global attention, and anger among many Cubans for its privatization of one of the main thoroughfares in the capital of a country that has declared socialist equality as its guiding principle. Privately designed clothes remain out of reach for Cubans on state salaries of about $30 a month, but those with private-sector jobs or help from family overseas can afford them.

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